Tuesday, 24 April 2018

FBA - Y shaped


This technique is courtesy of The Curvy Sewing Collective. It aims to deal with the huge dart that can result from a standard FBA by spreading the excess into the chest.

HOW TO PERFORM A Y-DART FBA

The Y-Dart FBA really only has one additional step beyond a traditional FBA.
  1. Let’s start by drawing in the lines that we’d normally draw for an FBA on a darted bodice:
  2. For the Y-Dart FBA, however, we’re going to add one more line. This line will run from the middle of the shoulder seam to the bust apex:
  3. Perform the following cuts to your pattern piece: From the bottom of the pattern piece to the bust apex, pivot slightly and continue on the leg that goes to the armscye, leaving a pivot point. 

  1. Cut from the edge of the bust dart nearly all of the way to the bust apex. Stop just short of where the previous cut passed through.
    1. Cut from the bust apex up the line towards the shoulder, leaving a pivot point. y resemble a “Y”, which is how this alteration gets its name:
    2. Cut all of the way through the horizontal lengthen line at the lower right.
  2. Just below the bust apex, spread the pattern pieces the amount necessary for your FBA.
  3. Fill in the open areas with pattern tissue.
  4. True up the lower-right corner piece with the rest of the bodice.
Let’s look at the difference between a 3″ traditional FBA and the 3″ Y-dart FBA that we just completed. Note how much more reasonable the side bust dart appears and how more gently curved the armscye is on the Y-dart pieces:

Friday, 6 April 2018

Tips on Men's Shirt Construction

The following tips are courtesy of Liana of Sew Intriguing. I particularly like her technique of cutting a long cuff so that the buttonhole end is on the fold, rather than a seam line.

Matching Patterns

  • When matching plaids, use the point of the armscye seam as the match point - this corresponds to the corners of the sleeve.
  • Check to see whether your fabric is thin enough that you'll see any doubled layers through it, If, for example, the stripes on the uner yoke will show through. They should either match exactly with the outer layer or else choose to use a plain fabric for it.

Cuffs

  • Cut the cuff lengthwise so that the fabric will be on the fold at the buttonhole edge with seams on the other 3 sides. The buttonhole edge is the important one. Putting the fold on that edge will give you a very flat edge and make the 2 corners easier to turn as there's only half as much bulk. Also, there's no seam allowance to bother the buttonhole.
  • Cut the cuffs somewhat wider than needed but cut the interfacing the finished cuff size. Then, when it comes time to fuse the interfacing, you can lay the two cuff pieces out and make sure they are a matched pair with stripes or design the same way on each. Because they were cut a little wider than needed, you can fiddle with the placement with plenty of room to spare.
  • Interface the outer cuff only.
  • Fuse the interfacing and then use the edge of the interfacing as the stitching guide, always making sure to go right along a stripe or plaid line. It's much more important to have the cuff follow the fabric pattern than tho have an exact seam allowance. You will trim you SA anyway.
  • To construct the cuff: 1. Match the outer cuff to the sleeve edge with RS together, making any sleeve tucks, and stitch. 2. Fold the inner cuff around the sleeve so it forma a tube with the sleeve in the middle. Sew the button end of the cuff together. You will be able to see exactly where the cuff should end by where the sleeve is. You may want to roll the sleeve slightly out of the way after you mark where to stitch, before actually stitching. 3. Now, resew each end of the outer cuff to sleeve seam that you just sewed first but this time sew through the inner cuff too but leaving 2 - 3" in the middle unsewn, so the outer cuff is attached to the sleeve all the way across but the inner cuff is only attached at the ends of the seam. 4. Trim, except the unsewn inner cuff area. 5. Turn the cuff right side out. Now, turn it inside out again but do it by pulling the cuff through the unstitched area you left in the cuff to sleeve seam. With the inner and outer cuffs RS together you will sew the seam at the lower edge of the cuff. 6. Trim, then turn back through the same unsewn area. Your cuff is now completely finished except for a small area you may hand sew or baste and close with topstitching.
  • When topstitching, start near the corner on the button side of the cuff as this will not show when the cuff is buttoned.

Collars

  • Collars are treated similarly to a cuff although the entire collar and undercollar are fused, including the SAs. Also fuse both inner and outer stands. This allows you to trim very closely without worrying about ravelling.
  • Use ¼ " SA on the collar stand and shirt neckline, cutting down the pattern if needed. The placement will be much easier. Always remember that you are matching stitching line to stitching line, and pay no attention to your cut edges - the smaller the SA the easier this is to do.
  • Topstitch and/or edgestitch the collar. Take a threaded hand needle with no knot and put it through the first collar point, beyond where you will stitch. This will give you a handle to begin stitching cleanly after you pivot. When you stop, be sure your needle is all the way down and on its way back up before you pivot or you will have a skipped stitch. Once you have turened the first corner, remove the needle and thread from the point and put it in the other point.

Front Placket

  • Don't use a separate CF placket piece, cut it on with the front so that you don't need to pattern match. You would use a separate placket piece for eg a bias placket.
  • To add a cut-on folded CF placket: 1. Add 3 x 5/8 " extensions from the CF of the shirt. 2. On the button side, cuff off ½ " of this. On the buttonhole side, fold under 1 ⅛ " and press. Fold under 1 ⅛" again and press. 3. Topstitch this edge. This is the outer edge of your placket. 4. Fold under 1 ⅛ " a third time and press. Topstitch this edge. 5. Unfold and press. The is the inner side of the placket, and it now looks like a stitched on placket. It is self-interfaced and the patterned matches! This is one of those times when you can fudge a littel if you need to, to make your fabric pattern end up in a good spot. Stripes or plaid make the folding extremely easy also as there is no need to measure all along, just follow the line. If you do measure, and don't follow the line, it will look crooked. Since the lines ar on grain, you want to follow them anyway. The button side is folded only twice, and stitched along the edge. The buttons will hold it down, along with the collarstand and hem.

Yoke

  • The depth of the yoke should be related to the back shape of the wearer. A shallow yoke that stops above the forward curve of the spine will make the wearer look stoop-shoulered. With very erect posture and a slimmish build, you can have a very shallow yoke and it will look fine. With very broad shoulders and a lot of body depth, a shallow yoke will look like it it perched on top of the shoulders, almost like a toy shirt. 

Shirt Hem

  • To hem: 1. Pin the placket together as if buttoned and hold the front opening to see if the front edges are exactly the same length. If not, trim one. 2. Serge the edge. 3. Turn up the hem the width of the serging and stitch with a 3-step zigzag. This makes a flat edge with no obvious line of stitch bulk. 4. Turn up again and straight stitch.


Sunday, 25 March 2018

How to Rip Out an Overlocked Seam

This technique is courtesy of Itch to Stitch.

Technique:


  1. Snip the R needle thread every inch or so and remove the threads
  2. Do the same for the L needle thread
  3. The looper threads should just fly out!

Narrow Hem a Curve

This technique is courtesy of Itch to Stitch.

Technique:
  1. Overlock the edge without trimming At the sewing machine, finger press the width of the overlocking up and then fold again.
  2. Use a stitch length of 3mm and start stitching up the double-folded hem. Fold the hem as you go, an inch or so at a time even on the curvy part.
  3. Press.


How to Make a Fabric Drawstring

This technique is courtesy of Itch to Stitch. It uses a 12mm bias tape maker as the basis. This makes a 6mm drawstring.

Technique:

  1. Cut a 1" strip of fabric across the grain by tearing, if possible. For a drawstring that doesn't need to curve, you don't need to cut bias strips.
  2. Cut a point before feeding it into the bias maker and press the tape as you go.
  3. Fold the tape in half lengthwise and press.\
  4. Stitch the tape close using an edge stitching foot +/- stitching the other side to match.

Lined Patch Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Itch to Stitch.


Technique:

Step 1: Sew lining to pocket at the top (ie the facing of the pocket) with RS together, leaving a 2" gap in the middle for turning.

Step 2: Press the lining up with seam allowances towards the lining to reduce bulk.

Step 3: Trim ⅛" off remaining 3 sides of lining

Step 4: Pin the lining to the pocket matching cut edges and folding at the fold line of the facing. Because the lining is smaller than the pocket, the pocket will 'bubble' a bit. Pin from the lining side.

Step 5: Stitch around the pocket with the pocket against the feed dogs so that the excess fabric is eased into the lining.

Step 6: Trim the seam allowances to about ⅛".

Step 7: Turn the pocket right side out through the gap between the lining and the facing. Press the seam very carefully with the seam line slightly on the lining side.

Step 8: Top stitch the pocket to the garment or hand stitch the seam line/lining to the garment. Hand stitching is great if you want the pockets to be invisibly attached, especially if the garment is of heavier weight.

Step 9: Press over a ham to give a nice subtle curve.


Sunday, 21 January 2018

How to Make Angels' Wings Shoulder Pads

This technique is courtesy of Jenny Holtsbaum.

Note that shoulder pads have a front and a back - a fat front and long narrow back. Use Armofleece by Birch or fusible Pellon or fusible quilting batting to construct.

Technique:

  • Shoulder pad pieces are marked from 1 (the smallest, at the top) to the last number (largest, the bottom).
  • Trace shoulder pad pieces onto the fusible side of the pellon with a laundry marker that won't run under steam. Cut left and right pieces.
  • The bottom (largest) piece and last number should have the left and right pieces swapped around so that the fusible side is up. Loosely layer the pieces together, checking that you have a left and right pad, in preparation for assembly.
  • Assemble shoulder pads over the side seam of the ham, with centre lines matching and notching either end of the shoulder line. Start with the bottom layer, pinning points to the ham, then use gentle steam to fuse next layer to bottom layer, and so on. Leave pinned to ham to cool.
  • Lie the shoulder pad over the armscye of the (pinned together) front and back pattern pieces and trim the pad to fit.
  • Put shoulder pad into large rectangle of Whisper weft at 45o and pin to ham. Press to fuse. Cut around the shoulder pad leaving a little slack at the edges. Remove from ham and press gently from the underside.
  • Mark the centre line on the top of the pad.
  • Cover shoulder pad with large rectangle of lining by placing in the bias fold  and shaping on ham with steam.
  • Remove from ham, sew a running stitch around the raw edges and pink.
  • When inserting angels' wings, loosely stitch only the centre line to the shoulder seam, leaving the pointed ends free.