- At the end of the coverstitch row turn the handwheel to form the last stitch, finishing with the needles up.
- Lift the presser foot.
- With a crochet hook or tweezers, pull the needle threads forward towards you by a couple of inches.
- Cut the threads.
- Pull the fabric straight back, hard and fast, then to the left to remove. This secures all the threads to the back, ready to be tied off.
Saturday, 18 November 2017
This technique is courtesy of Johanna from The Last Stitch. With this technique, the needle threads are pulled to the back, ready to be tied off with the looper thread.
Saturday, 23 September 2017
This technique is courtesy of Carolyn and can be used for eg sleeve bands.
- Cut knit fabric bands 3 x the wrist circumference with the stretch going around the wrist.
- Use a running stitch along one long edge with clear knitting elastic.
- Make many rows, one exactly under the other.
- Pull the rows up to gather the band in.
I can't remember where I saw this tip.
- Run a basting stitch within the seam allowance of the Concave piece
- Clip to the basting line
- Sew the Convex piece to the concave edge, straightening out the line as you go.
Thursday, 14 September 2017
This technique is courtesy of Sew Essentially Sew
- Choose at least 0.7m of gorgeous silk fabric.
- Fold it in half width-wise, carefully pinning the wrong sides together with silk pins. Sew using a French seam.
- Pin the selvage edges together, right sides together, making sure to leave an opening to turn the scarf through.
- Hand stitch the opening closed.
Sunday, 3 September 2017
This attachment makes perfect circles, from little to big.
- Attach the arm to the machine bed with one screw.
- Always use a stabiliser eg Vilene
- Choose the radius of the circle and spike the fabric.
- Use presser foot 20 and a straight stitch to stitch the circle or use a decorative stitch.
- To applique a circle shape, lie a rectangular piece of fabric over the base fabric and stitch the circle. Trim very close to the circle. Use a decorative stitch to go over the outside edge, with the circular arm as a guide.
Tuesday, 29 August 2017
This technique is courtesy of Meg from Curvy Sewing Collective. As she mentions in her post, I can see it on sleeves, centre front on tops, on skirts, pant legs, just about anywhere.
- Choose your pattern eg tee shirt or tunic top, knit or woven.
- They should start in a seam and finish in a hem and can be achieved in two ways: (1) The drawstring casing can be straight down from shoulder to the hem, gathers running diagonally from shoulder to side seam, on sleeves, up the centre of the bodice, diagonally from shoulder to hem. or (2)
- In order for the drawstring to emerge from the end of your casing, you need to leave an opening at the bottom hem. That means you have to hem the portion of the garment with the casing before sewing the casing seam together. Consider using a zig-zag stitch to hem both front pieces.
- Before fully constructing your garment, sew the casing seam.
- Finish the seam allowances and press open.
- To create the casing, topstitch the seam allowances you just pressed open on either side of the seam. Again, how wide you do your topstitching depends on your drawstring, but ½” to 5/8” should work.
- Use your fabric to create your drawstrings, or you can use some sort of store-bought cording or ribbon. If you use fabric, cut long strips (longer than your seam/casings, ensuring extra length so you can tie a bow if you like) and then either sew them in a tube and turn it right side out, or fold the two long side inwards and then fold in half again and stitch.
- Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread your drawstrings through the casings on either side of the seam.
- In order to secure the ends of the drawstring, baste them in place at the seam, within the seam allowance.
Sunday, 27 August 2017
We practiced this invisible zipper insertion method at the Bernina foot workshop courtesy of Studiocc. This zipper was to go into a dress with a waistband seam, an extra level of difficulty.
- Interface behind where the zipper will go.
- Press S/A under
- Lie the zipper under one folded under edge, as it will be. Open out the zipper on the S/A and unzip the zipper.
- Sew from the top zipper stop towards the pull using invisible zipper foot # 35 - don't sew the flaps, sew from exactly the stop. Sew down to the pull, don't try to pull the pull up or out ofthe way, just sew as close to it as you can.
- Close the zipper to check that all is as it should be - better find out now that it's wrong than later!
- Mark the waist seam on the zipper tape and then transfer this mark to the other side of the zipper tape.
- Close the zipper, line up zipper tape markers with other side of the waistband seam and pin at the centre.
- Sew from the top stopper down (or, if you want to be really exact, sew from the waistband mark up one way and then down the other).
- Secure the zipper tape by sewing to the S/A at either side with zipper foot No 4.
- Stitch in the ditch from the RS, the width of the S/A, across the zipper also with zipper foot No 4.
- Open the zipper outand sew the seam above the zipper with zipper foot No 4, keeping the flaps out of the way and without pulling the zipper. Sew at the 5/8" line down to the start of the stitching, veering outwards so that the foot edge is next to the original stitching line and overlaps for ~ 5mm. ie they do not meet, they are ⅛" out. This helps to not form a crease or bubble. Do the same at the bottom but with the zipper closed.